I’ve traveled through various small airports before, often finding myself deposited in obscure Eastern European cities, courtesy of Ryanair, sometimes miles away from my intended destination. However, my experience in Taranaki’s small airport was a different kind of encounter—one that offered a unique glimpse into a place that seemed to operate at its own relaxed, country pace. Upon arriving, we shuffled through a quaint hut, passing a short line of passengers waiting to board the tiny Dash aircraft that would soon whisk them away. The luggage area, more of a corridor than a conveyor belt, was where a small trolley would shortly deliver our bags, and it wouldn’t have surprised me if a sheep had wandered onto the runway, casually awaiting its turn for a shearing.
Taranaki brands itself as “a little bit out there,” and from my initial impressions at the airport, I couldn’t help but think they might have undersold it. Often overlooked by tourists who focus on New Zealand’s more famous South Island, Taranaki is a lesser-known gem in the country’s North Island. Recently, it was voted the second-best region in the world to visit by Lonely Planet, alongside destinations like The Azores and South Australia, both of which are deserving of their accolades. But Taranaki? I hadn’t even heard of it until this trip.
The shuttle bus ride from the airport, with me as the sole passenger, took me past lush, green farm fields, made even more vibrant by a wet summer. The driver, full of Kiwi hospitality and banter, provided an entertaining commentary from the front seat. Yet, as the bus meandered through the countryside, I felt a twinge of anxiety. I had an entire week ahead of me, and to be blunt, fields aren’t really my thing.
But something strange happened over the coming days, which eventually turned into weeks. Despite a few delayed departures, I wasn’t in any rush to leave Taranaki. Twenty days passed, and I found myself lingering, reluctant to depart. Finally, with the arrival of my best friend from home at Auckland airport, I dragged myself away to explore the rest of New Zealand’s North Island. And you know what? I realized that New Plymouth, the main city in Taranaki, had become my favorite city in Aotearoa.
Welcome to New Plymouth
New Plymouth is a city of delightful contradictions. On one hand, it boasts world-class features that any major metropolis would be proud of. On the other hand, it’s a place where I checked a bus timetable on a Monday and found the next bus wasn’t scheduled until Friday. The city’s restaurants might be bustling at 7 pm on a Tuesday, yet I could have the dance floor to myself in a nightclub on a Saturday evening. It’s a place where nature, art, food, and a mix of friendly and awkward social interactions blend together into something uniquely New Plymouth.
Despite its quirks, New Plymouth grew on me. Between afternoons playing frisbee, evenings attending free music gigs, and even bumping into a colleague from London for a coffee, the city slowly but surely got under my skin. If there were more work opportunities in this city—home to just 2% of New Zealand’s population and receiving a similarly small percentage of the country’s international tourists—I might have considered putting down roots.
While many people say that Mount Taranaki, standing proudly in the middle of the region and often shrouded in clouds, is the crown jewel of Taranaki, I’d have to disagree. New Plymouth itself is evolving rapidly. Co-working spaces are opening, artists are setting up shop, and world-class museums are making their mark, all contributing to the city’s growing reputation.
Things to Do in New Plymouth
Mount Taranaki
I’ll start with the most obvious attraction: Mount Taranaki. This majestic peak serves as a stunning backdrop to the city and was even used as Mount Fuji in the film *The Last Samurai.* You can see it from most vantage points on a clear day, and at least one, if not more, days of your visit should be dedicated to exploring Egmont National Park. However, I’ll save the details of that adventure for another time.
Art and Museums
The Len Lye Centre, which opened in 2015, is a must-visit for art enthusiasts. The building itself is a work of art, with its curved, highly reflective mirror construction. It’s part of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, which is named after famous local artists and features a curated collection of art and unique kinetic installations. The best part? It’s free to enter.
Puke Ariki, the world’s first integrated museum, library, and visitor center, is another impressive and free museum. It offers a wealth of information on Māori culture, the region’s history, and the local wildlife. Given New Plymouth’s unpredictable weather, these indoor attractions might come in handy.
The Wind Wand, a kinetic sculpture by Len Lye, is another iconic feature of the city’s waterfront. And if you’re staying at Ariki Backpackers, my favorite hostel in New Plymouth, you’ll be just a stone’s throw away from this landmark. The city also boasts a vibrant street art scene, with independent galleries and creatives eager to showcase their talents.
Pukekura Park
One of the most surprising and delightful finds in New Plymouth is Pukekura Park. This 52-hectare park sits peacefully alongside the city and offers a variety of attractions, including a zoo, beautifully styled gardens, a cafe, and an impressive event venue that hosts various concerts. I spent many days here, relaxing by the lake, taking a boat out on the water, or enjoying the Festival of Lights, a free event held most evenings during January and February.
New Plymouth Coastal Walkway
The New Plymouth Coastal Walkway is a must-do for anyone visiting the city. This 10-kilometer path stretches from Paritutu Rock, which offers fantastic views if you’re up for the climb, to the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, an Instagram-worthy structure that perfectly frames Mount Taranaki. Whether you’re grabbing fish and chips, watching the sunset at Fitzroy Beach, or catching some waves at the local surf club, this walkway offers endless opportunities for exploration.
I highly recommend renting a bike from Cycle Inn, as I did, and venturing beyond the coastal walkway. There are numerous mountain biking trails and side tracks to explore, so don’t miss out on the chance to see more of this beautiful area.
Sugar Loaf Islands and Seal Tours
Just off the coast of New Plymouth, the Sugar Loaf Islands form part of a national park. While scuba diving is possible here, the cold weather and choppy seas kept my PADI license tucked away. Instead, I opted for a boat tour with Chaddy’s Charters, where we were fortunate enough to see baby seals lounging on the rocks. While dolphins and orcas, which can be spotted in these waters, remained elusive that day, the experience was still well worth the $40 price tag—a bargain by New Zealand standards.
New Plymouth Events
New Plymouth is a city of events, many of which are free. During my visit, the TSB Festival of Lights was in full swing, transforming Pukekura Park into a colorful playground at night with live music on two stages. Fire performers even made an appearance on one memorable evening, albeit with a slight mishap that saw them topple into the audience.
WOMAD, a world-renowned music and dance festival, comes to town in March, while the Taranaki event calendar is filled with everything from classic car shows to Pacific-style parties, ensuring there’s always something happening.
The Region of Taranaki
Beyond New Plymouth, the Taranaki region offers a wealth of natural attractions, from the Surf Highway and its black sand beaches to lighthouses, jungle-like landscapes, and even a republic that elected a goat as president. The Forgotten World Highway is another must-see, offering a journey through one of the country’s most remote and scenic routes.
Getting to New Plymouth, Taranaki
As you might have guessed, there are no international flights serving New Plymouth. Domestic flights from Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch are available via Air New Zealand or Jetstar, and you can check Skyscanner for the best deals. Intercity buses offer connections to both the North and South Islands, but renting a car or campervan is the best way to explore the region at your own pace.
Getting Around New Plymouth
New Plymouth is a great city to explore on foot. If you’re not driving, the only real challenge is getting from the airport, but a shuttle service meets every flight and adjusts its price based on the number of passengers. Public bus services are available for trips to inland towns, and a mountain shuttle runs to Mount Taranaki. Hitchhiking is also a common and viable option in this friendly region.
Where to Stay in New Plymouth
During my time in New Plymouth, I stayed in several places, but Ariki Backpackers quickly became my favorite hostel of all time. More like a home than a traditional hostel, it’s a place where bedroom doors are always open, friendships are easily made, and the manager, Matt, is a local legend (don’t let the funky carpets deter you). With a range of dorms and private rooms, plus an awesome terrace overlooking the ocean, it’s the perfect base for your stay in New Plymouth.
Matt has also since established Egmont Travel Tours, offering unique local experiences like beekeeping, farming, and secret overnight hut stays. If you want to see a more authentic side of Taranaki, his tours are well worth checking out.
Where to Eat in New Plymouth
New Plymouth’s dining scene was a pleasant surprise, offering a variety of great cafes and restaurants. From popular chains like Burger Fuel to local gems, the city has something for every taste. Good Home is a top spot for a few beers and
upmarket pub grub, while The Loving Hut is one of the best vegetarian/vegan venues I’ve ever visited. Social Kitchen is a quirky venue known for its excellent steaks, though my experience at Monica’s Eatery was underwhelming.
For coffee lovers, Green Door became my go-to spot for a daily caffeine fix, as did the small and unassuming Landing Cafe. Vintage, located near the Len Lye Centre, is an excellent place to enjoy a cup of coffee while browsing through interesting artifacts. Ozone Roasters takes their coffee craft seriously, and their cafe is worth a visit to see what a coffee science experiment looks like.
Is Taranaki Ready for Tourism?
In my opinion, Taranaki isn’t quite ready for mass tourism, and that’s both its charm and its challenge. New Plymouth has everything you need for a comfortable stay, but the region’s infrastructure could use some improvement if it hopes to attract more visitors. Unlike Queenstown and other popular New Zealand destinations, where expensive activities abound, New Plymouth offers a more affordable experience. Morning beach walks, surfing sessions, hiking through pristine tracks, and visiting free museums won’t break the bank, which is refreshing after the financial strain of traveling through the rest of the country.
However, I suspect this will change as more tourists discover Taranaki’s charms. To support a growing number of visitors, the region will need to develop more tourist-friendly infrastructure and activities.
So, don’t be one of the 98% of international tourists who overlook this hidden gem. Come to New Plymouth, where you can chat with Rob at the Cycle Inn, feed stingrays with Chaddy at the harbor, or play frisbee with Matt from Ariki Backpackers. Plan to stay for just a few days, but don’t be surprised if the city’s black sands and relaxed vibe convince you to extend your visit. There’s something undeniably special about New Plymouth, and it just might become your favorite place in Aotearoa too.
