Embracing the Quirky Charms of New Plymouth, Taranaki: A Surprising Journey
I have had my fair share of experiences with small airports, often finding myself in random Eastern European cities courtesy of Ryanair, usually about two countries away from my intended destination. However, New Plymouth presented an entirely different scenario.
With an unhurried rural atmosphere, we nonchalantly filed through the hut door in single file, past a short queue awaiting their turn on the petite dash aircraft. The luggage arrival area resembled more of a corridor than a conveyor, and I half-expected a sheep to meander onto the runway for an impromptu shearing.
Taranaki proudly declares itself as ‘a little bit out there,’ and from my initial airport encounter, I felt the use of the word ‘little’ might have been a generous assessment. Often overlooked in favor of the South Island’s attractions, this part of New Zealand remained a less explored gem.
Recently crowned as the 2nd best region in the world to visit by Lonely Planet, I was eager to explore, yet unsure of what awaited me. Other honorees on the list included The Azores and South Australia, both of which I recognized as deserving of their accolades.
The shuttle bus, with me as the sole passenger, meandered through lush green farm fields, courtesy of the wet summer. Kiwi hospitality and banter filled the air from the front seat.
I’ll admit, panic initially set in. A whole week awaited me here, and, truth be told, I’m not particularly fond of fields.
Yet, over the ensuing days, which turned into weeks, something unexpected transpired. Twenty days passed, complete with a few delayed departures, yet an unexplainable reluctance to leave lingered.
Eventually, with the arrival of my best friend from home at Auckland airport, I reluctantly tore myself away to explore the remaining hidden gems of the North Island. What ensued made me question my own words: New Plymouth had become, unequivocally, my favorite city in Aotearoa.
Welcome to New Plymouth
New Plymouth is a city of contradictions, and I mean that in the most intriguing way possible. On one hand, it boasts world-class features that even the largest metropolis would envy; on the other, and I kid you not, I checked a bus timetable on a Monday, only to find the next one scheduled for Friday. Restaurants overflowed at 7 pm on a Tuesday, yet I could have the dance floor to myself in a nightclub on a Saturday evening.
Nature, art, food, smiles, and awkward glances seamlessly blend here. It’s the kind of city where you wouldn’t randomly bump into someone you know. Yet, somehow, I found a colleague from London to share a coffee with. Between afternoons playing frisbee and evenings attending free music gigs, New Plymouth slowly, but surely, got under my skin and, to my surprise, found its way to my heart.
If there were more work opportunities in a city that comprises around 2% of New Zealand’s population and welcomes only about 2% of the country’s international tourists, I might have considered laying down roots for a while.
While many argue that Mount Taranaki, perennially shrouded in clouds, is the jewel in Taranaki’s crown, I beg to differ. New Plymouth is a city undergoing rapid evolution. Co-working spaces are opening up, artists are setting up shop, and world-class museums are unlocking their doors, sparking much debate.
Things to do in New Plymouth
Mount Taranaki: The most obvious attraction, standing majestically as a backdrop to the city, even doubling as Mount Fiji in the film “The Last Samurai.”
Art and Museums: The Len Lye Centre, part of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, offers a unique experience with its curated art collection and kinetic installations. Puke Ariki, the world’s first integrated museum, library, and visitor centre, provides insights into Māori culture, regional history, and wildlife.
Pukekura Park: A 52-hectare park with a zoo, various gardens, a cafe, and an event venue for concerts, offering a surprising oasis in a city of this size.
New Plymouth Coastal Walkway: Spanning around 10km, it offers stunning views, from Paritutu Rock to the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, creating picture-perfect moments for Instagram.
Sugar Loaf Islands and Seal Tours: A boat tour with Chaddys Charters provides a glimpse of the islands’ wildlife, from baby seals to the occasional presence of dolphins and orcas.
New Plymouth Events: The city hosts numerous events, many of which are free, including the TSB Festival of Lights and the world-famous WOMAD music and dance festival.
The Region of Taranaki
Beyond New Plymouth, the Taranaki region beckons with the Surf Highway, lighthouses, black sand beaches, and a forgotten world highway, offering a plethora of natural attractions.
Getting To and Around New Plymouth, Taranaki
The absence of international flights to New Plymouth means relying on airports in Auckland, Wellington, or Christchurch, with connecting services by AirNZ, JetStar, or Intercity buses.
Exploring New Plymouth is a joy on foot, with shuttle services available from the airport. Public buses serve inland towns, though the Surf Highway has fewer options. A mountain shuttle runs to Mount Taranaki, and hitchhiking is a viable option between starting points.
Where To Stay and Eat in New Plymouth
Ariki Backpackers stands out as a favorite hostel, offering a home-like atmosphere with ocean views in the city center. Various cafes and restaurants provide diverse dining options, from upmarket pub grub at Good Home to vegetarian delights at The Loving Hut.
Is Taranaki Ready for Tourism?
In my opinion, not yet for the masses, and therein lies its charm. New Plymouth offers everything one needs without breaking the bank. It’s a city of nature, early nights, and early rises. Although change is inevitable, the relaxed pace of New Plymouth, coupled with its unique charm, might just keep you captivated longer than anticipated.
So, come savor a pie while Rob selects your two wheels at the Cycle Inn. Feed stingrays at the harbor as Chaddy shares marine tales. Play frisbee with Matt from Ariki Backpackers. Spend a few days, but don’t rush your onward plans—there’s something peculiar about New Plymouth, and its black sands might just relax you more than you expect.