There are moments when you arrive at a place, take it all in, and finally concede that it truly is worth all the hype. For me, that place was Český Krumlov, a real-life fairytale town nestled in Czechia’s (Czech Republic) South Bohemia region. With its picturesque castle and river-hugging charm, Český Krumlov seemed too perfect to be true. Countless friends had raved about this medieval marvel, which, ironically, had somewhat deterred me from visiting initially.
This isn’t to say the Czech Republic hasn’t always held a special place in my heart. Prague was the first city break I took my mom on as a newly-independent adult. Karlovy Vary was where I experienced my first thermal spa retreat. Kutná Hora taught me that churches could be adorned with human bones, and just last year, Brno revealed the excellence of Czechia’s wines to me.
However, I had always intentionally skipped South Bohemia. I was skeptical that Český Krumlov could live up to its reputation without being swamped with tourists. But with the country celebrating its 30th anniversary and it being 15 years since my first visit, I found myself back in Czechia, this time passing through South Bohemia on an overland journey from Italy to the Baltic States.
Deciding to extend my trip into a long weekend in South Bohemia was one of the best decisions I’ve made. This region, brimming with ponds, lakes, castles, and quaint towns, left me utterly enchanted, and my only regret was not staying longer.
České Budějovice
My journey in South Bohemia began in České Budějovice, the regional capital, not in Český Krumlov. This was a deliberate choice, recommended by a friend from Prague who suggested it as a more authentic example of Bohemian life with more affordable accommodation. I made this underrated city my base for the four days I spent exploring other charming towns and storied castles in South Bohemia. With a well-connected bus and train station, everywhere I wanted to visit was within an hour’s reach.
But České Budějovice deserves its own in-depth exploration. Recently announced as one of the European Capitals of Culture for 2028, this city has a rich history dating back to its founding in 1265 by the Bohemian king Ottokar II. The medieval city boasts a vast and photogenic town square, a regional museum, and a varied history of production from porcelain to pencils. The serene location is further enhanced by the confluence of the Vltava and Malše rivers. A short drive or bus ride away is the impressive Hluboká Castle.
Beyond its Baroque-style architecture and mirror-like lakes, České Budějovice is also known as Budweis in German, a nod to its history as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire before World War I. The city has been home to the Budweiser Budvar beer brewery since 1895. One of the most famous brewers in the world, you can tour and taste at the brewery itself.
Top Three Things to Do in České Budějovice
Explore the Old Town’s Highlights: České Budějovice is easily navigable on foot. Start at the extensive Přemysla Otakara II Square, where you’ll find the 18th-century Samson Fountain, the Baroque town hall, and the 16th-century Black Tower offering views across the city.
Visit the Museum of South Bohemia: This important museum houses a fascinating collection of regional artifacts and interactive displays. With information available in English, you can delve into the region’s history and see well-preserved examples of traditional life alongside natural history collections.
Enjoy Beers in the Budweiser Brewery: Book a tour and tasting at the Budweiser Budvar brewery, a short walk from the city center, to experience one of the world’s most famous beers.
State Chateau of Hluboká
Before this trip, I hadn’t heard of the State Chateau of Hluboká, one of Europe’s most impressive Romantic castles and an easy half-day trip from České Budějovice. Constructed as a royal seat in the 13th century, the chateau underwent numerous transformations. After falling into private hands in the late 18th century, it was redesigned in the Baroque style and later in its current Romantic form. Fortunately, the state regained ownership after World War II, and its gorgeous gardens, lavish halls, and panoramic towers are now open to the public.
The castle’s interiors, adorned with teardrop chandeliers, portraits of royalty, and ornately decorated wood-paneled rooms, are as magnificent as one would expect. I opted for a tour that included a climb to the tower, offering a pop-up book-like view of the town below, surrounded by dense forests and a network of cerulean lakes.
Top Three Things to Do in Hluboká nad Vltavou
Tour the State Chateau of Hluboká: The chateau’s grounds and exterior are free to explore, while a ticket for the tower costs a few euros. To enter the building, you’ll need to book a guided tour, with various options available in different languages. In the summer, it’s best to reserve your time slot online in advance.
Stroll Through the Town of Hluboká nad Vltavou: After visiting the chateau, explore the small, pretty town with its great coffee shops, two churches, and a relaxing atmosphere.
Walk or Boat Around the Munický Rybník Lake: This expansive lake is visible from the top of the tower. You can take a boat out on the lake or enjoy a picnic lunch while walking around its tranquil shores.
Český Krumlov
The crowning glory of South Bohemia and one of the most popular destinations in the Czech Republic, Český Krumlov, is like stepping into a fairytale. I was initially skeptical due to the flood of beautiful photos on Instagram, but arriving on a warm summer day in July, I was pleased to find that it wasn’t overrun with tourists.
Encircled by a horseshoe-shaped bend of the Vltava River, the medieval Old Town is a picturesque scene of cobbled streets, colorful squares, and soaring towers, all overlooked by a 13th-century castle. The castle has undergone significant changes over the centuries, with Renaissance extensions in the 16th century and the unique Cloak Bridge in the 18th century. It is the second-largest castle in the country after Prague.
Inside, the castle is equally opulent, with elegant carriages, upscale furniture, detailed wall paintings, and frescoed ceilings. The well-preserved Baroque Theatre, one of only two in Europe still in this style, is also a must-see with a separate ticket.
Beyond the castle, the Old Town unfurls in its shadow, offering numerous excellent independent bars along the river and down side streets. At Bistro 53 Beer Point, I met a local rafting guide, Michal, who shared fascinating stories about his traditional rafting company, which uses methods from the 11th century. This encounter enriched my experience and showed me that ancient traditions are still alive in this vibrant part of South Bohemia.
Top Three Things to Do in Český Krumlov
Tour the State Castle of Český Krumlov and the Gardens: There are five different tours available inside the castle, which can be booked online in advance. The grounds are free to enter, and the tower ticket is combined with the Castle Museum.
Enjoy Some River Rafting in the Summer: Michal’s traditional rafting company, Voroplavba, offers a unique way to see the city from the water. Alternatively, pack rafts and kayaks provide another way to loop the Old Town by water.
Get Lost in the Old Town: Walking around the Old Town is a photographer’s dream, with numerous museums and amazing viewpoints. After exploring the cobbled streets and river strolls, relax on one of the floating pontoons with a craft beer.
Třeboň
Surrounded by artificial lakes and fishing ponds, Třeboň is the epitome of a countryside city. Upon arriving by bus from České Budějovice, I headed straight for the Spolský Potok lake, tracing its shores and canals before entering Třeboň Old Town through historic gates.
A historic spa town, Třeboň is a popular retreat for locals looking to recharge and reconnect with nature. The 12th-century Gothic Saint Giles Church and the Renaissance-style State Chateau of Třeboň are standout architectural highlights. The chateau, entered through an enclosed courtyard, offers three different guided tours, with the Rosenberg interiors being particularly impressive.
For me, Třeboň stood out more for its natural walks and the serene cobbled streets, making it a perfect end to my South Bohemian adventure before returning to Prague.
Top Three Things to Do in Třeboň
Tour the State Chateau of Třeboň: The chateau offers three types of guided tours, with tickets available online. While less visited than other regional castles, it’s still advisable to book in advance.
Stroll Along the Canals and Lakes: Třeboň’s canals and carp-filled lakes were engineering marvels of the Middle Ages. From the town’s edge, you can follow the canal to the lake, where boats and watersport rentals are available in summer. The Dům Štěpánka Netolického museum provides more information about the pond system.
Explore the Old Town: Třeboň’s quaint Old Town can be explored in a few hours. The Old Town Hall tower offers the best views, and the Saint Giles Church is worth a visit. The Regent Brewery is a great spot to relax with a local brew.
The Lakes Beyond
South Bohemia offers more than just castles and charming towns. The region is famed for its ponds and lakes, established since the 12th century for fishing and recreation. This makes South Bohemia a fantastic summer destination, offering opportunities to cool down, take a dip, or enjoy watersports.
With dense forests and untouched corners, it’s a natural paradise for long leisurely hikes or cycling between castles on canopy-covered tracks. The Třeboň region, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, features some of the most impressive clusters of ponds and lakes, fitting seamlessly into the landscape after years of hard work and historic engineering.
My biggest advice is to not limit your visit to a day trip to Český Krumlov from Prague. South Bohemia has a wealth of history, heritage, and natural beauty to explore beyond the famous chateau. Experiencing the Czech Republic’s natural side was a refreshing change from the big cities.
If you have more time, consider visiting the beer-centric city of Plzeň (Pilsen), exploring tree walkways like Lipno, or seeking out more hidden gems among South Bohemia’s castles.
