Discovering Berat, Albania: A Journey Through Time and Charm
As I navigated through the winding streets of Berat, Albania, my interactions with the locals began on a humorous note. “Our guest house is in the Castle,” I repeated slowly to the policeman. He responded with an elaborate gesture, waving his hands around like a snake, and then flashed a grin reminiscent of a child’s. It took us a moment to realize that his theatrics meant, “Move your car!”
Upon arriving at our guest house, we were greeted by the owner, whose broad smile was as welcoming as the cold beer he promptly handed us. “So, you’ll stay just one night in Berat?” he asked. Glancing at the meticulously kept flower beds, the medieval-style arch door leading to the courtyard, and turning back towards our dimly lit, charming underground cave room, I responded, “Let’s make it two.”
Falling in Love with Berat
It only took five minutes to decide that two nights in Berat were not just desirable but necessary. There’s an indescribable vibe that tells you you’ve arrived somewhere special, even if you didn’t know you were looking for it. However, to be honest, the five-minute claim isn’t entirely true. Our loud and somewhat ridiculous entrance to this historic, white-washed wonder happened nearly an hour earlier.
Our journey began several hours before in our car, essential for exploring the myriad incredible sites in Albania. “Do you guys want to stay in the Castle?” Jones called out from the front seat. It wasn’t really a question; it was what many would call a no-brainer.
The Journey to Berat
As we drove through the varying road conditions, from good to bad to downright sketchy, we wove through the peculiar Albanian countryside. Tiny villages and bizarre stuffed bears mounted on roofs blended into dirt tracks and miles of greenery. Short drives in the Balkans often defy conventional time scales, translating “short” into “kind of long, bumpy, and totally lost.” Six hours later, as we turned the bend, the white houses of Berat with their gaping windows came into view, and I knew it was worth every second.
Berat, meaning “White City” in the old Southern Slavic language, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site only in 2008. I can only assume no one from UNESCO had heard of it before then, because this city certainly deserves its spot on the list.
The white houses, with their wide windows and red dirt-specked rooftops, climb the mountain on either side of the Osum River. On the right, they fade into lush greenery; on the left, they ascend to the castle walls, which would be our home for the night.
An Adventure in the Castle
I looked at the steep, white-cobbled road leading upwards and knew our beat-up car was about to give us trouble. “Let’s get this baby up the road,” screamed Lili, our designated driver and resident daredevil. She revved the engine, skidding our car up to the castle entrance before triumphantly parking it in a spot that would be illegal anywhere else.
Thus began our hour-long saga with one of the most cheerful policemen I’ve ever met. Despite his exemplary use of hand signals, he steadily lost patience with us. As he mimicked a dancing dolphin with his arm for the 98th time, repeating the word “up,” I started to lose faith in our car. It slipped and skidded, but eventually, we pulled up outside Guesthouse Kris Berat with enough Snapchat footage to create a mini comedy.
“Make sure you use the new side road,” our new friend advised as he served us another round of beers. “The old road to the castle is nearly impossible.”
Exploring Berat
The castle itself, dating back to the 13th century, is unique to the area, blending Ottoman mosques and Byzantine churches. Spend a couple of hours strolling around the walls, through the small streets where people still live, or hunt down the woman selling fresh fruit and stock up on some cheap and tasty plums. Staying within the castle walls was a special experience, allowing us to come and go as we pleased. The restaurants, with their brick walls and colorful vines, serving homemade wine and Rakia (the local spirit), were the perfect spots to end the day.
The old town of Berat, just below the castle, is even more charming and, surprisingly, devoid of tourists in the middle of an August day. Most of your time here will likely be spent photographing the white houses by day and enjoying the river views from a restaurant by night. Seriously, do not skip this place on your Albania road trip!
The Vibrant New Town
The new town is nearby. Follow the promenade along the river and you’ll be amazed at how lively it becomes by early evening. The coffee (or beer) culture is thriving here, making people-watching—a favorite pastime of mine—a real treat. With a population of around 70,000 people, Berat has a good vibe and never felt too crowded. The city’s long and impressive history is well worth reading up on if you have a spare few minutes.
A Day Trip to Bogove Waterfall
“The place is beautiful, but the road is so-so,” our host advised before we set off from Berat. I had learned that “so-so” could mean no road at all, so nothing was going to shock me.
Driving along the river into the mountains, following the road up and down, you can’t help but become addicted to the landscape of Albania. At times like these, I’m glad I never passed my driving test because keeping my eyes on the road would have been impossible. As the road turned into a dirt track leading high up a mountain, I realized we had hit that “so-so” moment.
“It won’t MOVEEEEE!” screamed Lili from the front seat, ready to drive the car off a cliff out of frustration. We sat there, deflated, wishing we had spent a bit more on a car that functioned more like a car than a glorified shopping trolley.
Luckily, we were just blind and stupid. Slowly descending the red dirt road we had so aggressively tried to climb, we saw a little turning labeled “Waterfall.” My Dutch isn’t great, but I assumed the muttering I heard wasn’t PG-rated.
The Hidden Charm of Bogove
Bogove is a quaint area. We had stopped to ask for directions at a café, where 2 cigarettes was the going rate for guidance. With a lack of a mutual language, it wasn’t surprising we had taken the wrong turn.
The path leading to the waterfall is a mix of untouched nature and large steel pipes carrying water away. After a twenty-minute climb, the small waterfall and its beautiful enclosed pool came into view. A lone figure sat pensively, staring at the trickle of water. Tourism hasn’t hit this country hard yet, which is both the charm and the challenge of traveling through it.
After nearly getting frostbite trying to photograph the scene, you just have to settle into the uninterrupted sounds of nature and turn off from the rest of the world. I found a few moments of bliss in Bogove that I won’t soon forget.
Practical Information for Visiting Berat
Where to Stay
I can’t recommend Guesthouse Kris enough. It has a dorm room, a two-bed apartment, and a three-person underground den (my favorite), making it small and homely. Book directly through their Facebook page to support them fully and enjoy their tidy courtyard, perfect hospitality, and the magic of staying in Berat Castle.
How to Get There
I always advocate renting a car in the Balkans since many hidden gems can only be reached that way. Alternatively, major cities like Sarande run day trips and tours to places like Berat, though you might miss the authentic vibe if you rush through it.
Hitchhiking isn’t uncommon in these parts (we tried to pick people up until our car broke down again 20 meters later—talk about embarrassing!). Public transport in Albania is difficult and not well-regulated, with occasional crashes and fatalities. The government is trying to improve this, but reliable information is still sparse. Hopefully, the official tourism transport page will improve over time.
Costs and Budget
Traveling in Albania can be surprisingly expensive, especially in peak season (August). A great meal in Berat could be found for about €6, and a three-person room at Guesthouse Kris was around €35, which is reasonable for the high season.
Final Thoughts
Our original plan was to take the five-hour journey from Berat to the Macedonian capital, stopping at Lake Ohrid and spending two days in Skopje. However, we realized that “five hours” in the Balkans meant nothing, so we shelved that plan and continued to explore the Albanian Riviera.
Berat, with its rich history, charming architecture, and vibrant culture, proved to be a highlight of our trip. It’s a place where the past and present blend seamlessly, offering a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you’re exploring ancient castles, wandering through picturesque streets, or simply enjoying the local hospitality, Berat is a destination that should not be missed on any Balkan adventure.
